Hello.
My name is Kobayashi, an apprentice umbrella maker, and I will be writing this umbrella column.
I hope I can explain in an easy-to-understand way all the things about umbrellas that I learned from Mr. Mitsuda, the "walking encyclopedia of umbrellas" of Komiya Shoten.
Thank you very much for your cooperation.
The process of making an umbrella involves a step called "middle stitching," in which the needle position is determined at the apex of each piece of fabric cut into an isocurved triangle, and then each piece is sewn together one by one with a sewing machine.
This time, let me write about a "slightly special sewing machine" that is indispensable for this middle stitching.
With just one thread,
"Single chain stitch" - sewing like crocheting
The PEGASUS DH series is a small, dull green sewing machine.
They are our important "partners" when it comes to making umbrellas.
The distinctive feature of this sewing machine is its stitches.
From the front, it looks no different from stitches made by a normal sewing machine, but the back side is a chain stitch made up of a series of loops of thread.
This style of stitch, which does not use the "bobbin thread" used in ordinary sewing machines but uses only a single thread to sew fabric just like crocheting, is called a "single chain stitch."
Just as crocheted stitches are flexible and strong, the stitches on an umbrella sewn with a single chain stitch are also very elastic.
An umbrella looks completely different when it's open than when it's closed.
Naturally, the stress on the seams connecting the fabric is different when the garment is open and when it is closed.
The force of the bones pulling the fabric and the wrinkle-free, beautiful, soft and round silhouette created by the fabric itself are possible because the single chain stitch, which has excellent elasticity and resilience, relieves the stress just right.
This is not possible with typical "lock stitch" sewing machines used in dressmaking, as the emphasis is on "fastening" the fabric together.
A precious sewing machine that is endangered
A single chain stitch sewing machine is absolutely essential for making beautiful umbrellas...
However…
From the beginning of the Meiji era when Western umbrella making began in Japan, to the present day of Reiwa,
This single chain stitch sewing machine has been used as an essential item for making umbrellas...
It's no longer being manufactured!
It is an endangered species.
Since these are rarely available on the market, craftsmen use the sewing machines they have on hand, taking great care to maintain them.
Even if something breaks, it's difficult to even get the parts you need, so it's not uncommon for people to search for substitute parts themselves and customize them to use.
A "senior" in umbrella making
I was also thinking about getting my own sewing machine, but it wasn't that easy to find one.
I kept looking and finally got it the other day!
My master gave me some warm encouragement (?) by saying, "In order to be able to make decent stitches, you'll need to sew at least 1,000 pieces," so I hurriedly began maintenance work on my machine in order to begin the 1,000-piece challenge.
Naturally, the sewing machine I purchased was second-hand.
As expected, there were quite a few missing parts, and the paint was peeling and scratched.
I wonder how many umbrellas this sewing machine has sewn inside so far.
I think about that every time I look at it.
A "senior" in the umbrella making world who is still actively involved.
We look forward to your continued support in the future.
