This was given to us by a former umbrella craftsman, and is a "hand-cranked single-chain stitch sewing machine" that was actually used by Miyata Fusataro, an umbrella craftsman in Kyobashi Ward, Tokyo City, during the late Meiji period.
One of the processes for making Western-style umbrellas is a step called "nakanui," in which fabric cut into an isotropic triangle is sewn together with a sewing machine.
The sewing machine used for the middle stitch is called a single chainstitch machine, which is a rare machine that does not have a bobbin thread.
*Stitching work in progress
You may be wondering, "Can I sew securely using only the upper thread?"
However, when opening and closing an umbrella, the stitching inside is pulled, so if you use a regular sewing machine, the thread will break or the umbrella will not open or close properly.
When viewed from the front, the stitches made by a single chain stitch sewing machine look no different from those made by a normal sewing machine, but the underside is created by operating the machine's looper to create a chain stitch, which makes the fabric strong and flexible, making this sewing machine ideal for making umbrellas.
The middle stitching process also plays an important role in creating the "beautiful silhouette" that Komiya Shoten is conscious of, making it an extremely important and indispensable process in making umbrellas.
For this reason, all of Komiya Shoten's umbrellas are still made using single-chain stitch sewing machines. However, production of these machines has already ended, and they are now so difficult to obtain that they could be said to be an endangered species. Therefore, the craftsmen take good care of the few remaining machines they have.
*Currently used single chain stitch sewing machine
*The hand-cranked single-chain stitch sewing machine from the Meiji period that was acquired this time
Among these, what arrived at Komiya Shoten this time was an incredibly valuable single-chain stitch sewing machine that has been handed down since the Meiji era.
It is obvious that they are older than the umbrellas that our craftsmen currently use to make umbrellas, and they are operated by hand.
Apparently, this sewing machine was originally used in France by Barthélemy Thimonnier in 1825 to sew military uniforms.
It appears that it was imported to Japan, had a handmade binder (trumpet tube) attached, and was improved as a sewing machine specifically for sewing the inside of Western-style umbrellas.
In addition, we were able to see Kai silk (Koshu woven silk fabric) that was used at the time along with the sewing machines, as well as the tools used to make umbrellas.
The fabric is thought to be a special umbrella fabric called "Kaiki," which was improved in 1872 (Meiji 5) by Sakamoto Tomohisa, the fifth generation head of Senjoko Sakamoto Shoten, the No. 1 powder brand at the time and the first to make Western-style umbrellas in Japan.
(For more information about Senjoko Sakamoto Shoten, please click here )
Among the fabrics was also found an umbrella cover (fabric sewn together with a middle stitch and before being stretched over the frame) that had been processed using a hand-cranked single chain stitch machine.
Unlike modern treadle sewing machines, the way the craftsman operates the handle with his right hand while using his left hand to evenly sew two pieces of umbrella frame (cut fabric in an isotropic triangle) through a trumpet tube is a testament to the experience and advanced technical skills he has cultivated over many years.
The middle seam is also sewn using the "Kanto stitch" style unique to artisans in the Kanto region, which brings to mind the scene of umbrella making at the time.
(For more information on Kanto sewing, please click here .)
These sewing machines, fabrics, and tools may seem trivial to people who are unfamiliar with umbrella making, but for us umbrella makers and craftsmen, they are historical cultural heritage, and I was grateful and thrilled to have had the opportunity to encounter them.
These cultural heritage umbrellas will be exhibited at Komiya Shoten's Higashi-Nihonbashi shop, so please come and see if you are interested.
I hope that by imagining what it was like to make Western-style umbrellas back then, you will become at least a little interested in Western-style umbrellas and umbrella making.
